It was hard to drag ourselves away from Marie Galante, but a morning’s sail brought us to her far more sophisticated neighbour, Les Saintes. I imagine the south of France might have been like this in the 1960s before the hordes arrived. We picked up a mooring in a large bowl of a bay with the red roofed town spread out in a horseshoe around us. Ashore, there are numerous restaurants and little boutiques selling t shirts and glamorous floaty evening dresses (I resisted on grounds of practicality!). But also, common to all these islands, the Saturday morning fruit and veg market where we can pick up the most intensely flavoured fruit and (my favourite) avocados almost the size of my head. Tom and I swarmed ashore early on Saturday to get our provisions before the heat set in, rewarding ourselves with a cup of coffee and an excellent vantage point for people watching. Plenty of men walking around with baguettes tucked under their arms, stopping off for a coffee and their first cigarette of the day on the way home. Women on their way to work, exchanging kisses with acquaintances every few strides.
There’s some fabulous hills to climb with rewarding views of the Saintes themselves and to Dominica, Marie Galante and Guadeloupe mainland. Best of all is the snorkelling from our current anchorage – Pain a sucre. The children are having their first glimpses of coral and teeming fish. I will let them fill you in on the details.
We are loving Guadeloupe, getting firmly into the swing of Caribbean life, making the most of early mornings and late afternoons, adjusting our pace, and spending plenty of time in the sea.
One morning I walked up to the top of Le Chameau just outside of town. It was quite a challenge even for a seasoned mountain goat like me. The view was astonishing though. Ignore the haze and check out that runway! Who’d like to land there I ask?!
Cherubino was tucked in the top left of the bay as you look in this picture.
Bourg des Saintes waterfront. Beautiful church tower. Not so beautiful half finished building!
This taken from opposite side of the bay. You can see Le Chameau on the right. Cherubino is second line of boats in from the right (between the two catamarans).